Tortoise Shell Necklace Belt

Built from large curvilinear tortoise shell links, each backed in silver and joined by silver elements, this piece could be worn as either a necklace or a belt, a flexibility that speaks to Spratling's interest in convertible, sculptural ornament. The sweeping curve of the links and the contrast of warm shell against silver carry the design.

From the First Design Period, 1931 to 1946, the piece comes with an honest material caveat from the record: the curvilinear material may in fact be bone rather than tortoise shell, a distinction a close examination would settle. Spratling worked in 980 silver, a higher purity than sterling, and marked his designs with the joined "WS" adapted from his horse brand (Morrill, p. 39).

With no recorded reference, the piece rests on its early date, its mark, and confirmation of the organic material. The dual necklace-belt format is its distinguishing feature.