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A scholarly catalog of Mexican modernist silver. Object records are cited, attribution-graded, and open to correction.

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Héctor Aguilar Three Ball and Wave Bracelet
Héctor Aguilar

Three Ball and Wave Bracelet

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Object record

Catalogue no.
MoMS-001955
Form
bracelet
Date
c. 1940–1945
Place made
Taxco, Mexico
Materials
940 silver
Techniques
hand-wrought, raised wave elements, applied turned spheres, hinged link construction
Marks
HA 940 linear (1939 - c.1945)

Curatorial note

This bracelet distills one of Héctor Aguilar's most characteristic link vocabularies into a compact, tactile object for the wrist. Each rectangular plate carries a single raised silver wave, a shallow S-curve rising from the flat ground, and the plates are joined by clustered silver spheres that read as the "balls" against the "waves" of the design's common name. Worn, the bracelet reveals its logic. The polished plates catch light in broad planes while the sculpted waves and turned spheres break that light into a rhythmic pattern of highlight and shadow that shifts continuously with the movement of the arm. It is a design conceived for the body in motion rather than for a display case, and the hallmark visible on the clasp, Taxco with the conjoined HA and 940, confirms the higher-content silver the Taller Borda reserved for its serious work.

The ball-and-wave motif belongs to the family of articulated link designs that stands at the center of Aguilar's output. Morrill's catalog documents the workshop's related patterns, the Six Spheres necklace and bracelet, the Maguey and New Maguey sets, the Linked Circles bracelet, all built on the same principle of repeated silver units hinged into a supple band. Within that family the ball-and-wave occupies a middle register. It is less austere than the Six Spheres, whose severe geometry pushes toward pure Constructivist abstraction, and less overtly botanical than the Maguey, whose forms recall the agave. The wave introduces an organic, flowing gesture, but the disciplined repetition of identical plates keeps the whole firmly architectural. That balance between movement and order is precisely what makes the pattern a core Borda design rather than a minor variation.

The choice to render the pattern as a bracelet is itself worth noting. The same vocabulary exists as a necklace, but the bracelet concentrates the sculptural mass and the visible handwork into a smaller compass where they can be appreciated directly, at arm's length and in the hand. Aguilar bracelets tend to reward this kind of close looking: the weight, the crisp seating of each sphere, the clean rise of each wave, the flawless articulation of the hinges are all immediately legible on the wrist in a way they are not when a necklace lies flat at the throat. The engineering, dozens of individually worked units flexing as one, is high-order silversmithing carried off with apparent ease.

Placed within the Taxco Silver Renaissance, the piece exemplifies the modernist synthesis Aguilar pursued after leaving Spratling's Taller de las Delicias to found his own workshop: a wearable object built from repeated geometric units, disciplined in its composition yet alive with handworked incident. It merits inclusion in a museum collection as a clear, well-made representative of Aguilar's central link-design idiom, the sort of object that lets a curator show, in a single wearable form, how the workshop turned rhythm and repetition into modern jewelry.

Known holdings

  • Collection of Cindy Tietze-Hodosh and Stuart Hodosh

References

  1. Silver Masters of Mexico: Hector Aguilar and the Taller Borda, Penny C. Morrill (Schiffer Publishing), 1996 source

Related pieces

More by Héctor Aguilar

Héctor Aguilar Book and Three Beads Bracelet

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Book and Three Beads Bracelet

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Héctor Aguilar Bracelet with Amethyst Cabochons, Roped Links, and Silver Beads

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Bracelet with Amethyst Cabochons, Roped Links, and Silver Beads

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How to cite this record

Museum of Mexican Silver. “Three Ball and Wave Bracelet.” Catalog no. MoMS-001955. https://museumofmexicansilver.com/pieces/aguilar-ball-and-wave-bracelet-10

See something wrong with this record? Suggest a correction and the piece details fill in automatically.

Record data: Materials are corrected to 940 silver, which is what the clasp mark records — Taxco with the conjoined HA and 940 — rather than the sterling standard previously entered; the mark is now also recorded in the Marks field. The date is entered as an inferred range, c. 1940-1945, on the basis of that mark, and is labelled as inferred. Place of manufacture is Taxco. Construction is recorded under Techniques as raised wave elements with applied turned spheres in hinged link construction.

Still outstanding: dimensions. Interior length, plate width and weight have not been measured. Morrill's Silver Masters of Mexico is added to References as the source for the related Taller Borda link patterns cited in this note, but the exact plate for the ball-and-wave bracelet has not been identified and should be added when it is checked against the book.

Héctor Aguilar Copper Heart Bracelet

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Copper Heart Bracelet

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Héctor Aguilar Amethyst Pyramid Cuff

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Amethyst Pyramid Cuff

1939-1962

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See all pieces by Héctor Aguilar

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