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The necklace's form is its argument: every link a discrete fish, alternating larger elongated bodies with smaller four-point connectors, so the piece circles the neck as a swimming school rather than merely bearing a fish motif. The sterling frames are flooded with vitreous enamel in layered greens and deep oceanic blues, the surface patterned in overlapping cells that read at once as scales and as light bending through water.
The enamel-on-silver line was the technical signature of Margot de Taxco's taller. Morrill and Berk document that the champlevé method was first developed in the Taxco workshops before Margot perfected and extended it, describing the resulting necklaces, bracelets, and earrings as "glittering displays of color, texture, and technical perfection." Margot added the enamel line in 1955, seven years after opening her shop and taller overlooking the zócalo, and it became the defining voice of the house. In this necklace, the scale-patterned enamel is not decorative fill on a silver form but the essential logic of the design itself.
The fish appears across Margot's documented design inventory in more than one configuration — sometimes with elements that detach as wearable brooches, sometimes paired with earrings — suggesting an extended design family adapted across forms and suites. The all-fish link format here, where the motif is the structure of the necklace rather than an ornament applied to it, is a distinct formal decision within that family.
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MARGOT DE TAXCO: A SILVER AND ENAMEL FISH LINK NECKLACE
Bonhams (United States)